There was a time when the M.A.C. Spice lip pencil was seen on every high-fashion runway and stashed in nearly every woman’s makeup bag. Makeup artists loved it. Linda Evangelista named it one of her favorite products. It even won an Allure Best of Beauty Award in 1996. In an era when makeup was all about looking glamorous and sculpted by using only nude, neutral, and natural-looking colors, the brownish-pink pencil was the perfect way to enhance your lips without using a bright, obvious-looking hue. So it’s no surprise that at Moschino’s Milan fashion week show today—where Evangelista served as the primary inspiration for both the clothes and the beauty look (her, and the paper dolls of our childhood)—that makeup artist Tom Pecheux paid tribute by breaking out Spice on the runway for the first time in years, as well as the fully made-up look that went with it.
And Pecheux didn’t just revisit a classic product, he whipped out all the classic techniques as well. For example, using Spice to make the lips look bigger by rounding and sightly overdrawing the cupid’s bow and applying a bit more of the pencil right in the middle of the lower lip line. But what I really wanted to know is his secret to the glamazon smoky eyes the models were all wearing. “To do this classic shadow look, put your foundation everywhere, even on your eyelids, powder your lids [with translucent powder], and then powder them again with a shimmery shadow that’s a bit paler than your skin tone,” Pecheux explained. “This creates your base.” Then you apply your charcoal-colored shadow at the outer corners and along the creases—stopping about halfway so the darker color doesn’t go all the way to the inner corners—and blend, blend, blend. But it’s the double-powder trick that’s really key here. “If you try and put dark shadow onto greasy skin, or skin that’s not been powdered, it will look patchy,” said Pecheux. “If your lids are well powdered, though, you can really make the shadow look smoky while still enhancing the shape of the eye.” For some it might feel like I’m spewing out lessons in Beauty 101, but when we’re seeing no-makeup makeup looks on the runways and faces that are too covered in makeup on Instagram, maybe it’s time we all brushed up on the basics.
Watch the Moschino Spring 2017 Runway Show